Tag Archives: Dragon Quilt

Dyeing to Show You

15 Feb

If you read my last blog you will have seen my first attempts at dyeing fabric. Since then I can’t stop myself. I have dyed a fabric in every colour I bought and some in more than one. Behold.

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I have also started using them in my applique.

This one makes for rather a busy background but you can’t deny it’s colourful.

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You may remember I used some similar fabric in a quilt I made featuring dragons. In fact it was this fabric that started the interest in dyeing my own.

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close up of fabrics.

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In case you were wondering about the clowns, they are from my new quilt pattern. It will be published as soon as I get the time to sort out the printing.

Here’s a preview.

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Cupcakes, Cream Teas and Crocodiles.

2 Jul

After much hinting and the realisation that just about everybody who visits us or is visited by us seems to be a member of the National Trust, The Big Cheese bought me a membership for my birthday. A combination of that and a free pass for a non member saw myself and Daughter Number One visiting Coleton Fishacre in Devon. It was a lovely day and, despite being a sunday, was not greatly overcrowded.

We had a very interesting time looking round the house. It used to be owned by the Doyly Carte family of Gilbert and Sullivan operetta fame. If you are ever in the vicinity and like historic houses and lovely gardens I can thoroughly recommend it.

The front of the house with some of the vast gardens

The sloped roof in the front is a side view of the loggia used for all meals whenever possible. I think the weather must have been better in those days.

The gardens were also lovely with many walks and we saw some plants we had not come across before.

Apparently these are a type of orchid. They look like dozens of tiny orchids on one stem.

Needless to say we had to sample the creams teas too. We sat in a sunny courtyard and they certainly didn’t skimp on the jam or cream.

The day after I arrived to stay with D1 she went on a course to decorate cup cakes. I was very impressed. I suspect that both skill and patience are required to achieve results. She certainly has the patience and she seems to have picked up the skill as well. What do you think?

I particularly like the pigs.

I can tell you that those bows are not easy. I was given a quick lesson on Sunday and Isuspect I have neither skill nor patience.

This week is her sister’s birthday so she decided to convert her skills into cake decorating. Slightly different scale but the skills seem to transfer and she certainly has patience judging by the time spent on the decoration.

Daughter number two was born in Africa and lived there for her first few years. The logical cake therefore was obviously a map of Africa with some native animals.

The tablecloth rather betrays the birthday girl’s origins.

Just in case you are missing the quilting element of the blog, here is my birthday gift. You may recognise it.

I have not had time to do any quilting having been away from my workroom. perhaps next week I will have made something more to show you.

Year of the Dragon

24 Jan

Technically my Year of the Dragon was last year. If you read my blog you will know that a part of 2011 was taken up with the making of two dragon quilts. I used the applique one as a tutorial. and also    and also.  I also did an embroidered one in this post.

As you can see that could qualify 2011 as my dragon year. However, I am presently binding both these quilts and one of them is a present for a new baby to be born this year. I did not know that 2012 was to be the year of the dragon but how appropriate is that. I also made a matching bag for baby katundu.

I have been struggling with my Grace frame to do the quilting but this one turned out quite well.I decided not to get too ambitious so I did a bit of random meandering round each dragon and then finished off with stitch in the ditch as it looked a bit unfinished. If I don’t look too hard it looks a bit like flames surrounding the dragons.

A few closeups.

To finish it all off I made a label using one of the dragons I hadn’t used on the quilt.

Also a card to match.

If you have a Grace frame I have a few pictures to show you how it’s done. First Load the backing on to the top rail right side down.

Then roll the top onto the third rail right side up.

The wadding comes up between the rails and lies on top of the backing. The top is then pulled up and pinned on to the wadding to be rolled on to the top rail.

You now have a flat sandwich to work on.

Each layer is moved on ratcheted poles.

The other quilt was appliqued using a pattern from the same place as the embroideries. The Quiltery.

So I have finally finished the dragon quilts. Now the UFOs. they depend on the frame and the stitch controller went haywire just before I finished for the day today. Tomorrow I have to try and sort it out. Happy days. Don’t you just love technology.

Just When You Think It’s Safe…..

4 Dec

I do believe it’s those darned dragons again. Just a quick post to show completion of a project.

If you have read my previous posts  and also you will remember I made two quilts with dragons – one embroidered and one appliqued.

The finished top

Having  made the quilts I decided to make a bag to match. Here are all the various bits ready to assemble. I quilted the front and back panels with the embroideries and chose two different coloured fabrics to match the embroideries too.

Front – or is it back.

Back or is it front.

I have found that this style of bag is ideal for all sorts of activities. Both Daughters use them for dance shoes and sundries. I use one when I venture out to the shops. As this one matches the quilt it will probably be a bag for baby acoutrements. I have been known to embroider a bale of towels to match a bag for Daughters to take on dance weekenders. This makes a very impressive present whilst not costing the earth.

Now to decide which quilt to put with this one.

The Seas Were Made of Ink

5 Nov

I’ve given up on the printing. I finished yesterday with black fingers and a dirty desk. Something to do with breaking the habit of a lifetime , buying compatible cartridges and expecting them to behave like proper ones. Hey ho, that’s life. I have sent them back as instructed so if you’re in the pub/cafe and you see someone with inky fingers astound him/her by asking if he/she is a postman/woman. (Political correctness can play havoc with the typing fingers.)

Having finished my appliqué dragon quilt top – yes I know I still have to quilt it – I have embarked on an embroidered version. I was very impressed with the quality of the embroideries and so I have decided to make a quilt  and lots of accessories. I will keep you posted with the progress.

Here are the embroideries.  I am making a baby quilted mat  and, I thought a matching bag for all the katundu babies need on their travels. I am going with gold, mauve and purple as a cross section from the embroideries.

This is the fabric I will use for sashing.

I did one of these sets using Beatrix Potter characters and was pleased to find that some of my fabric collection matched the embroidery threads perfectly. Having matching  colours pulls it all together.

As with appliqué I started with the fabric a couple of inches bigger than I wanted it finished thus allowing the fabric area to shrink a little during embroidering.This is particularly likely to happen with an embroidery with a large amount of stitches per inch. There is nothing worse than doing a perfect embroidery and then finding the fabric is now too small or distorted and needs straightening up but there is not enough fabric.

Digitising is another thing I would like to do but meanwhile I just admire the beautifully competent embroideries that some  companies and individuals produce. It has also to be said that there are also some who are perhaps not so good. Most online sites supply free trial embroideries so that you can see the quality of their digitising. That way you at least get an idea of the standard.

Always use a reasonable thickness of stabiliser on the back. I was taught to use two pieces on top of each other, twisting one at rightangles to the other so that the grain goes in two directions. Makes it more stable I guess although I was told to do it by someone who knows so I do it. Experimentation is good for the soul but I work on the principle of ‘He who dares often comes a cropper’ so sometimes I go the tried and tested route.

As with applique I use a bobbin thread unless I am doing freestanding lace in which case I have been known to wind the same thread top and bottom. I am experimenting with coloured bobbin threads for applique and I have a feeling I might start to use those for FSL in time. However, with most embroideries I use white bobbin thread.

Everybody’s embroidery machine will be different so you need to read the manual and experiment. If you are using a machine that  also does other stitches you may need to drop the top tension  as in satin stitch appliqué described on my other blogs – this one  and this one . If it is a dedicated embroidery machine then you will probably know it’s habits. It may still need some adjustment though. Like people, just when you think you know them they do something totally unexpected an ruin your day.

Preferably try out the embroidery on something other than the piece you are planning to give as a present or enter into a competition.  That way, if it needs adjusting it can be done without spoiling anything important. Have you ever tried to unpick a digitised embroidery. I have and take it from me it is a pain. No point in having a nervous breakdown when a bit of patience would have prevented it.

The sashing is attached.

Next stage the borders. These are a bit easier as the fabric I used for the embroideries is thicker than the sashing so it wasn’t as easy to attach especially as I use an overlocker whuch is not as easy to control as a standard machine and once it has chopped off the seam edge your personal dictionary suddenly has more words than you realised so care is the order of the day. The borders, being the same as the sashing are easier to deal with.

The finished Top.

Now I just have to quilt it.

Dragons Defeated and Tip the Fourth

27 Oct

I have finished the last dragon in my dragonathon. They are all now ready to be incorporated into the quilt.

When planning an applique one little trick that I find pays off is to cut the background pieces  slightly bigger than they need to be when finished.  When an applique is stitched the background fabric sometimes becomes distorted. How badly will depend on various factors including how good your applique technique is and how tight the stitches are. If you allow even an extra 1″ around it means that you can trim it to straighten up the block. I usually allow about two inches  extra – that is if the piece needs to be 10″ x 10″ I cut it 12″ x 12″.  This will obviously be dictated to a certain extent by the amount of fabric  available. When I have done the applique I then cut it down using my cutting board and rotary cutter. I don’t necessarily cut 1″ off each side. I look at the finished picture and decide if I need to take more off one side than the other. Cut one side then use that now straightened side placed along one of the cutting mat lines to cut the other side. Then use these two straight sides against cutting  lines to square up the other two sides.

Trimming with rotary cutter and ruler.

Trimmed to provide nice straight edges.

You will now have a beautifully squared up block to help you achieve a beautifully squared up quilt. This means that when you come to add wadding and backing and quilt it you will not be struggling with an uneven quilt top. This means your will to live will be preserved for longer.

Having achieved a straight edge ready for a perfect quilt cut each piece as you need it, checking all measurements before cutting. Never blindly follow measurements given to you in a pattern. The pattern designer may have worked out what the measurements should be but they have calculated without knowing how accurate your seams are. I use an overlocker to sew my seams so they are not always a perfect 1/4″. This does not matter as long as I make all my seams the same and measure every piece accurately before cutting. If you have to start stretching seams to fit your quilt top is going to be warped and you will be an unhappy quilter. The point of my telling you these little tips is so that you are a happy quilter. Ergo, I will also be unhappy as I will have failed. So to keep us all happy and chirruping along MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE.

If you look at the finished quilt top you will see that the next stage is the sashing. This is the narrow strip of fabric between the blocks, shown here in green.

The finished top

Look carefully at the quilt top and you will see that you can work out which order to do the sashing in. The orange and purple dragons on the left have one strip between them. The middle dragons have a strip between them. Join these two pairs and then cut a strip to join them together into the block of four. The two dragons at the top left should then be joined and then that strip joined to the bottom four.That then just leaves the three on the right to join together and then join to the six block. You need to be able to work out how to do this as sometimes patterns are not clear. You may think you know what it means but it is only when you have cut your precious fabric that you realise you didn’t fully understand. If you take some time to understand the finished top you will be able to check at each point.

Next the borders. Often the fabric width is not enough to stretch the whole side of a border. One little trick to make it look as if you did it on purpose rather than just joining two bits of fabric is to put a contrast fabric on the join.

Hiding the Join

This is how it would look.


You may not mind a seam showing and want the whole border the same colour. If this is the case I would recommend that you cut the  border strips so that the join is in the middle or, if you are trying to save fabric, cut in such a way that the seam is in roughly the same place on each edge. In other words, make it look as if it is part of the design, not that the piece of fabric wasn’t long enough. Little things like that make it look as if you know what you are doing. Although it is simple it is the sort of thing that doesn’t occur to you until it is too late.

Another way of doing this is to make a diagonal seam.

Place the strips of border fabric at rightangles to each other and pin or draw an accurate line from corner to corner. The line MUST go into the corners to make sure your border pieces are level.

Stitch along the line and trim the seam

Press (preferably better than I have on this one.)

Voila! A nice neat diagonal seam. If you choose matching bits of fabric it will be almost invisible.

Thinking outside the box you could get rid of the problem altogether by using fabric from the quilt to cut small squares and make a scrappy border instead.

The quilt sandwich for quilting and the finishing binding are not difficult to understand from any quilting book. I will cover them when I come to do this quilt but meanwhile there are lots of sources out there if you are in a hurry.

Hopefully we now have lots of machine applique experts out there. Just practice and you will get there.

Curiouser and Curiouser

20 Oct

Just in case you were wondering where I have been – the answer is ‘down a rabbit hole’. I have had to take a temporary rest from appliqueing dragons to venture into Wonderland.

Sunday was Daughter Number one’s unbirthday, her birthday being the following Tuesday. She has a penchant for themed parties and this year decided on Alice in Wonderland. This meant I had to find some sort of costume. I suddenly remembered that amongst the embroideries I bought from The Quiltery last week was a collection from Alice in Wonderland so I found myself a shirt and off I went. I obviously had to have Alice.

Followed by the other characters.

White Rabbit

Walrus

March Hare

Caterpillar

Back of Shirt

Cheshire Hat

Pinny for Daughter Number 2 to serve the tea.

Everybody had to wear Alice in Wonderland themed outfits or a ‘Mad’ hat.

We had to enter into the garden through the tiny door. This was a bit of a challenge to some of the people in tall hats as was the pea netting hanging from the ceiling. This was covered in crepe paper leaves, the window was open and every time there was a breeze it was like Autumn as the leaves floated down through the gaps between the lengths of netting. Quite an accidental plus actually.

There was lots of tea and cake and fun was had by all.

What will it be next year?

I haven’t been able to do any sewing this week. Yesterday Daughter Number One and I made little embroidered bags for Christmas goodies. They turned out very well. They are done completely in the hoop which means no finishing although there is a bit of temporary glue involved that created a few amusing moments. I sat on the top of the desk, turned round and tumbled everything to the floor. It appears I had sat on the paper we were using under the glue spraying activity, it stuck to me and as I moved it moved with me taking everything with it.

We Wish You a Merry Christmas

One of the Snowfolk.

Santa

It’s frightening how close Christmas is actually. These bring it home.

Meanwhile back to the sewing. Here are the latest dragons on the way to completing my quilt.

I gave in to my urge to buy coloured underthread so I will keep you posted on whether it is worth the extra or not.

When I have finished the dragons I will take you through the next few stages of finishing a successful applique. It is a waste doing a perfect applique if you don’t finish it off and insert it into the quilt top properly. However, this will be a lot easier with photographs so I will comment as I do it myself.

Surprised Hobbits, A Miffed St George and Tip the Third

13 Oct

I am still wandering through the land of dragons making cute little critters out of scraps and thread. Wouldn’t the Hobbits be surprised. I think St George might be a bit miffed too but that’s another tale for a winter’s evening.

Remember I am narrating my way of doing things and the things that work for me. If you find another way, by all means take it. Take advice from wherever you find it, mix it up and pick out the bits you like best. It sounds like a bag of pick-and-mix but you get the idea. If you prefer the licquorice torpedos to the sherbet dabs, go for it.

I gave you an overview of the beginning of the making of the dragon quilt in my last post. If this is the first one you are reading you might want to have a look at that one too to fill in the gaps. I discussed the basics of fusible web application and we ended up with templates covered with layered up fabrics ready to stitch. This time I will deal with the stitching a bit more.

I always  use machine embroidery thread for my applique and I always use satin stitch these days. I did toy with other embroidery stitches but was too afraid of how they would survive washing . I always use the machine as have neither the skill nor the patience to do hand applique. I also prefer the satin stitch look but that is subjective. For every person who likes machine stitching there will be one who prefers hand stitching and ultimately neither is better than the other, they are just different. I have both Madeira and Gutermann Sulky threads, I use the Madeira for my embroidery machine as a lot of commercial embroidery patterns are done in Madeira so it makes life easier. Before I bought the Madeira threads I had already treated myself to the full range of Sulky threads and so I use them for the applique, to use them up so to speak.

My Sulky collection

My Madeira collection

Unless you do a lot of embroidery you may not be able to justify investing in the large cops but the Sulky collection of all plain 40 weight rayon  plus some variegated are available in purpose made boxes for a reasonable price. If you are in UK follow this link to buy either the large cops or collection of small spools at trade prices. These are prices without VAT so you will need to add that.

I have the variegated threads too and I have a little trick to help me see which is the nearest match to the fabric I have used. I stitch out a sample of each to keep in the box.

Easiest way to identify the nearest match.

Looking at the colour on the cop doesn’t help as different threads are variegated differently. Some blend gradually and some are almost stripes and only seeing them stitched will show you how they will look on your project.See some of the ones with more distinct differences below. The same applies to variegated metallics which are very handy for Christmas projects.

It is not compulsory but I always use a piece of stabiliser under the appliqued block. This seems to help the machine sew better and more evenly. After all most people would use stabiliser if doing a standard embroidery on their machine and this is in effect embroidery. Any weight will do but if it is very thin use a double layer. As I keep emphasising, experiment. Try everything out on a sample of fabric with the same conditions  as the project will have and only go to your actual project when you are happy with the result. A little preparation time can save a lot of unpicking and  frustration.

Stabiliser in case you don't know what it looks like.

I also use  an open-toed applique foot as it makes it easier to see the stitches and get them in the right place. It should be possible to get one to fit your machine. It certainly takes the aggravation out of a large part of the process.

Open-toed applique foot

Your templated block on its own is not usable, it needs some definition.

Before stitching

It should look like this.

First of all I compare the block with the template and draw in any definition lines to help with the stitching. I also draw round any areas which overlap in an identical colour so that I can see where to stitch the outline.

Definition Lines

As I suggested in the last blog use bobbin thread on the bobbin. It is a finer thread than normal sewing or embroidery thread, the machine seems to prefer it and there is not so much bulk under the embroidery. Satin stitch is a fairly dense stitch and so there are quite a few threads to the square inch. If there is too much bulk sometimes the  machine will jam and refuse to move.  I can tell you from experience this is a pain and you really don’t want the hassle. As an added bonus the thread is cheaper and, of course saves your normal thread for when it is really needed.

The next point is to loosen the top tension to around 3.  Again experiment until you have a good even stitch on top with none of the bobbin thread being pulled through. The other way is to tighten the bobbin tension but the top is the easiest and the result the same.  The object is to make sure that the bobbin thread pulls the top thread down slightly so that no bobbin thread shows on the top and only a thin line of the top thread shows underneath. This will give a neat stitch showing only the colour you want to show.

For general stitching round the shapes I set my stitch width to 2.5 on my machine. To do the definition stitching I lower this to 2.0. I think these are fairly standard on most machines but, again, experiment. You might prefer a wider stitch over all or some sections. Whatever you choose make sure that it is wide enough to enclose the raw edges of the fabric.  the stitches should just go on to the background with most of the stitch on the applique so that it doesn’t fray.

Even if you use a tying off stitch at the end of your satin stitch row it may pull loose if not finished off properly. I start my row with the both  threads in front of the foot so that they will be covered by the stitching as I sew. One turn of the wheel by hand will raise the bobbin thread to the top, then turn it a couple of times before putting your foot on the pedal. That takes care of the beginning.

Pull the two threads to the top under the foot.

The secret to securing the end threads lies partly in the order in which the pieces of the design are stitched. Always look at your design and decide which pieces are underneath and which on top. Do the underneath ones first so that when you do the  top ones you can make sure any loose tails are sewn into the stitching. It may require an extra colour change or two but which is more important, doing one colour all the way through without changing the thread or a better appearance and no loose threads?  I would say that the finished article is the important thing, not the speed of sewing.   Any threads that cannot be tied off in this way need to be pulled through to the back and tied off by hand with a few double knots.

Carefully work out which pieces are over others.If you look at the purple dragon his tummy is done after the purple body and I would do the bottom, second up, third down second down, top and then the centre to cover the rest of the stitching. (By the way I repositioned the eyes before sewing. Sometimes it is difficult to see where things go. I only realised my mistake when I came to draw the nose detail.)

A short time working this out at the beginning saves a lot of unpicking.

Here he is finished.

Well I have four more to do so I really must get down to the dungeon. The Big Cheese has gone to a sugar conference (how sweet) so I don’t even have to stop to eat today.

Hopefully I have helped at least one person on the way to applique. I have tried to make it understandable which is not always easy when you know what you are doing. It is easy to forget when you knew nothing and assume knowledge by the other person. (Have you read a computer manual recently) If you need any clarification send me a message. Otherwise happy appliqueing until next time.

Here Be Dragons – Tip the Second

7 Oct

I was in my dungeon piecing dragons – as you do , and I felt another tip coming on. This time it is a bit of a visual on how to piece fusible web appliques. The theory is very easy if the practice can be a bit fiddly.

There are so many wonderful appliques out there and it seems a shame that more people don’t do them. I, for instance have looked longingly at several Mckenna Ryan’s reckoning they would be so fiddly that, even with my experience they would be the cause of a nervous breakdown. My problem is that ‘art quilt’ or not, I cannot see myself doing anything less than satin stitch applique round all the shapes.  Anyway, I have finally invested in one and I will keep you posted. A quick look through certainly doesn’t show anything that would be too daunting so we will see.

Back to the dragons. I was looking for the source of a free pattern I made up several years ago and came across the patterns on The Quiltery in  Australia. They have some very interesting patterns and a pattern club that allows downloading of a large number of different patterns for a reasonable annual fee. I like most of them but I was particularly taken by the various dragon quilts. I have started with ‘Adopt a Dragon – One’

Isn’t that just the cutest set of dragons you have ever seen. (If dragons can be cute) I have stitched one and laid out a few others ready to stitch. I wouldn’t recommend it as your first attempt at applique unless you are blessed with a very large measure of patience and perserverance. However, the different stages of putting together these appliques  are the same as those for  simpler ones. The patterns are well presented except that the pattern pieces need to be retraced as they are not supplied in reverse. I would say that there is no way anybody could do these dragons with anything but fusible web applique so the patterns should really have been supplied reversed . However, if you have a photocopier that does mirror image copying you can use that or just trace the pieces onto the back of the pattern sheet with a light box. The reason for needing reversed pieces will become clear as the lesson progresses.

Each individual pattern comes with a pattern sheet.

Pattern Pieces

A layout sheet –

Layout Sheet

A colour picture of the designer’s chosen colours –

The original colour scheme

As I said at the beginning the pieces need to be reversed so they need to be traced through the pattern sheet onto the back. Compare this picture with the pattern sheet above to see what I mean. A light box helps at this stage. I have seen people use a window but that requires more sun than I ever get in my dungeon. If you have good eyesight you might manage without.

Pattern pieces traced onto the back of the pattern sheet to reverse.

These pieces now have to be traced onto the paper side of a sheet of fusible web sold under various names in various countries. It is basically a piece of paper with glue fused onto it.

Pieces traced onto fusible web.

This is my choice of fabrics for this quilt. They are available from Starr fabrics in the wonderfully named Pig Alley in Etna CA.

Colourful batiks.

These pieces are now roughly cut out and ironed rough (glue) side down onto the WRONG side of the fabric to be used.

Pieces ironed onto WRONG side of fabric.

Each piece is then cut out on the drawn line and the paper removed, leaving a piece of fabric in the right shape with glue on the back.

Cut out and remove paper.

The next stage requires either a piece of non-wax baking paper (greaseproof in UK) or an applique sheet. I prefer the former, I don’t get on with the applique sheets very well. Lay the paper or applique sheet over the layout page.

 

Lay the greaseproof completely over the layout.

The layout should be completely covered. This picture is just so that you can see what I mean.

All the pieces are numbered. In this pattern they go onto the sheet in the order they are numbered. If you look at the picture where the shapes are ironed on to the fabric you will see numbers on the pattern pieces. Place them on the corresponding numbers on the layout. Tack them down with the point of the iron. When you are completely happy with the layout iron over the whole lot quickly with steam (or follow the instructions on your brand of fusible webbing). When cool remove the whole applique from the greaseproof paper.

Take the piece of background fabric in the size specified in the pattern.

Background Fabric

Lay the applique onto the background at the angle you prefer and, using a steam iron, press onto the background to fuse permanently.

Ready for stitching

As you can see this is not acceptable as an applique. It needs stitching. This particular pattern is suposed to be satin stitched.

Satin stitch is just a close zigzag stitch with a very short stitch length and about 2.5 wide. Test on a spare piece of fabric to make sure it looks good. Lower the upper tension to around 3 – again experiment until no bobbin thread shows on top but the top stitches are not too loose. Use a special bobbin thread. This will help the machine move more easily and also save your more expensive thread. I use a piece of embroidery stabiliser under the whole applique shape. This is not obligatory but makes life much easier.

See which pieces go over and under others. Try to do the underneath ones first so that as you sew the next layer the bottom start and end stitches are caught in so they do not come undone.

Here is one I prepared earlier.

Finished applique.

As you can see the stitching makes all the difference. I use matching embroidery threads. You could experiment with anything. If you want to try out some applique without buying a pattern in case you don’t like it, use a colouring book. Trace the shapes as above, perhaps starting with something simple, and see if you like it. I personally have great fun doing this sort of quilt. it gives a sense of achievement.

There is a link to the web site above or go to http://thequiltery.com.au and click on ‘pattern club’ there you can have a look at the patterns available before you join. I’ll post a picture of the quilt when I have finished it.

I hope this little tutorial gets somebody on the road to satin stitch applique. It really is rewarding.